I'm posting this to "homebrew" even though it arose out of a "truckbrew"
in which I added to my pick-up truck a second battery with isolated
charging, DVM voltage monitering, HF and VHF radios, power outlets in
the "topper" area, NVIS antennas (which worked VERY WELL), etc. (the
"etc." included replacing the AM/FM radio).
Between the "cut here" lines is a copy of a letter I sent last October;
what happened and my conclusions follow the letter.
---------- cut here ---------- cut here ---------- cut here ----------
Leonard Roberts, President
Radio Shack, A Division
of Tandy Corporation
100 Throckmorton St, Suite 1000
Fort Worth, TX 76102
Dear Mr. Roberts:
I want to let you know just how UN-happy I am with the Optimus "In-Dash
AM/FM [Radio with] Stereo Cassette with Auto-Stop" (Catalog # 12-2009)
I purchased in March, 1996, and installed in my pick-up truck in April,
1997, right about the time its warranty expired (I'm just slow--my problem,
not yours).
Basically, your radio has always had two problems; the first I found
immediately, and the second I just discovered this past week:
1. Its selectivity on both AM and FM is TERRIBLE! For example, there
is a small (5,000-watt) AM radio station whose transmitter is located
on the other side of town. That station (at 580 KHz) can be clearly
heard from 530 through 640 KHz and effectively precludes listening to
any another stations on those "adjacent" frequencies except for one
which does make it through at 610 KHz. Similarly, there is an NPR/
classical-music FM station at 89.5 MHz to which I like to listen, but
stronger stations "bleed" through until that station is wiped out!
Another FM example: there is a local FM station at 103.5 MHz; I can
hear it clearly at 89.1 MHz, 89.3 MHz, 90.1 MHz, and on up the dial.
That is TERRIBLE selectivity.
But, because I was so slow in installing the radio such that the
warranty had expired, I thought I'd just have to live with the "lemon".
2. However, just last week I used the "CD" input for the first time.
It worked fine, BUT when I left the cable plugged into the radio
overnight, the radio LOST ALL of its programming: all 30 radio
memories AND the clock time! With this new discovery I just have
to complain.
Speaking as an electrical engineer with more than 30 years of experience,
I can understand the cost/performance tradeoffs of building a not-too-
expensive radio with poor selectivity, but disconnecting the "keep alive"
voltage to the memories when the auxiliary CD input is used IS ONE CRAPPY
DESIGN!
As I said before, the warranty period is long past. However, if you'd
like me to continue buying more than parts at Radio Shack, I'd appreciate
your authorizing an after-the-warranty return of my radio for a better
model.
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Incidentally, I used the "CD input" to feed audio from my HF transceiver
to the pickup-truck speakers, which worked very well! But I never
imagined I'd have to UNplug that input every time before turning the
ignition off just so the AM/FM radio could remember its programming!
WHAT HAPPENED
-------------
About a month later, in response to the above letter, I received a call
from Radio Shack headquarters asking me to identify the Radio Shack
store from which I purchased the crappily-designed AM/FM radio. When
I identified our local store, I heard someone in the background say
"That's one of our franchise stores."
The caller thanked me, AND THAT'S THE LAST I'VE HEARD OF THE MATTER!
MY CONCLUSIONS
--------------
1. Don't be slow in using new purchases, or (stated another way)
don't buy anything until I am actually ready to use/install it.
2. Try EVERY possible feature ASAP.
3. Do NOT buy from a Radio Shack franchise (locally-owned) store,
'cause Radio Shack Headquarters apparently can't even ask it
to correct a problem.
4. Do NOT buy anything "big" (i.e., more than miscellaneous parts)
from Radio Shack, period!
Of course, your mileage may vary.
--Myron.
--
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# PhD EE (Professor Emeritus) "Barbershop" tenor. CDL(PTX) W0PBV (785) 539-4448
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