Radio Shack PRO-2006 Mod. Info

Radio Shack PRO-2006 Mod. Info

Post by Berton Cors » Mon, 12 Sep 1994 07:40:37

The below was ftp'd off of  I take no responsibility
for the following.  Use the below info at your own risk!

                        PRO-2006 Modifications

NOTE: The Electronic Communications Privacy Act of 1986 makes it
unlawful to monitor mobile telephones, including cellular. The following
modification is intended only to restore continuous 760-1300 MHz
coverage as originally provided by the design of the PRO-2006


                824-851, 869-896 MHz Frequency Restoration

Tools Required: small Phillips screwdriver, small wire cutters.

Procedure: With the power cord unplugged, remove the two rear
cabinet screws holding the upper cover. Lift off the upper cover,
being careful not to stretch the speaker leads. Examine the inner,
right-hand-corner of the front panel to find two glass diodes, labelled
D503 (upper diode) and D502 (lower diode).

Using the clippers, very carefully snip the visible lead of the lower
diode (D502) at its bend and slightly separate the cut ends. If it is
ever necessary to send the radio back for warrenty repair, the diode
leads should be carefully resoldered.

Reassemble, plug in AC cord, turn on scanner, and press RESET.

                        Keyboard Beep Delete

With the top cover removed as described above, locate connector CN3,
a 15-pin connector with colored wires at the front of the main circuit
board. There are two precedures which will stop the beep tone from
being heard through the speaker; read both to decide which procedure
you want to follow.

(1) Find the center grey wire coming from CN3 and cut it midway to
disable the beep tone. You may wish to solder a resistor in series
to reduce the beep volume, a trimpot to vary the volume of the beep
tone, or a minature switch to choose between beep and no beep.


(2) Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, CAREFULLY pry the plug from CN3,
revealing a row of pins. Locate the center pin (#8) which corresponds
to the grey wire and bend it down flat, disabling the beep circuit.
Reinsert the plug. The pin may be erected again later to restore the
beep tone if desired.

This completes the restoration procedure. Reattach the cover and replace
the screws.

                        WARRANTY REPAIR

Should it be necessary during the first year of ownership of your new
PRO-2006 to exercise your warrenty, it should be carefully double-boxed
(as you received it) and returned to Grove Enterprises. Be sure to
include a copy of the original bill to establish warranty

You must prepay only shipping and insurance; return shipping and
insurance to you will be paid by the dealer.

        Grove Enterprises, P.O. Box 98, 140 Dogbranch Road
                Brasstown, NC; 1-704-837-9200

Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1992 18:38:46 GMT

|> Has anyone tried the Scanning Speed Mod on the PRO-2006.
|> Any side-effect? A guy from Marymac told me the mod
|> increases scanning speed significantly.
|> nvn

There are two diodes behind the "3" key on the keypad.
Clipping one restores cellular, clipping the other
increases scan speed by about 13%.    I did this to my
Pro-2006 after the warranty expired and did indeed measure
a 13% scan and search speed increase.   I don't think
this has had any adverse effects on the radio although
its theoretically possible that the increased scan speed
might cause the radio to miss some carriers - but this
is purly speculation on my part.



Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1992 01:23:09 GMT

>>There are two diodes behind the "3" key on the keypad.
>>Clipping one restores cellular, clipping the other
>>increases scan speed by about 13%.    I did this to my
>What about the crystal mod. The Pro-2004 and Pro-2005 could be revved up
>with a faster crystal. According to the Scanner Mod Handbook #2 (by Bill
>Cheek), it is theoretically possible to increase the Pro-2006 in the same
>manner, although he warns that he hasn't personally tried it. Since it
>already scans *much* faster than the 2004/5 (Hyperscan) with a 12 MHz
>crystal, he cautions that it may or may not work. HAS ANYONE TRIED A

Yes, I have done the Crystal mod.  I used a 16.630 MHz crystal from an old
cordless phone (no bull), and I got a big speed increase (approx. 46 channels
per second).  I tried several different crystals, ranging from  16MHz to 39MHz,
and my results seem to indicate that the highest crystal freq. should be about
18 MHz.  If the crystal is too fast, the 2006 just uses the 3rd harmonic (ie
a 39MHz crystal operates like a 13Mhz.)


Quote:>>The Scanner Mod Handbook #2 says to replace the 12 MHz crystal with something
>>faster; however, the author, Bill Cheek, says he hasn't actually tried it. I
>>haven't either, although I'd be interested in knowing if it is a successful

 Well gang, right after I got my Mod handbook 2, I tore into my 2006. At first I
tried a 20 MHz xtal, the processor locked up and not all the LCD display
segments were happy (I had already done the diode clip speed mod). So I tried
an 18 MHz xtal, same problems. I contacted Cheek (the author) and he reported
that 16 MHz was the safe upper limit as he had seen no lockups at that speed
and higher speeds had produced lockups on SOME units.

So I changed xtals again. The 16 MHz runs fine without any loss of sensitivity
and I find enough delay left to still be able to use it (a faster
microprocessor xtal shortens delay time).

My favorite 2006 mod is a wired remote control (Monitoring Times Aug 91 - Bill
Cheek). I added a few extra parts and can control the following functions from
a six foot detachable cord: Scan, Manual, Search up, and Search down. Searching
is a snap when you can't reach the keyboard or it is dark.



Subject: RE: PRO-2006 Scanning Speed Mod.

Well, I changed the crystal in my Pro34, which is the same type of
crystal and harder to get to than the 2006; however, I haven't changed
the 2006 crystal yet. Some of the following instructions come from the
Scanner Mod Handbook Vol. 2 on removing the logic board. Please read it
all before doing anything. If you royally***up your scanner, IT IS

Before you start anything, make sure you are at a static safe
workstation.  Unplug the A/C power cord. Remove the top and bottom
covers. Remove the 4 countersunk machine screws from thesides of the
front panel, then gently pull the panel away from the main chassis. All
wires and cables will have to be disconnected from the top and bottom
of the logic board (the board that the crystal is on). This will cause
your memory channels to be lost and you will have to reprogram them
:-(  (If you can work around it, you could leave CN-3, a 15 wire
connector, connected to save your memories). At this point you may have
to desolder a ground wire from the chasses going to the bottom of the
logic board metal shield. Next, remove 6 small screws that secure the
logic board to the front panel. Then, face the inside of the front
panel placed in an upright position and locate the white 13-pin
connector (CN-501) at the upper left corner of the board. This
connector doesn't have any wires, just metal pins going into it. Gently
pry this connector apart with a small flat blade screwdriver and the
board should slip away from the plastic front panel and come loose in
your hand.  Also, you may need to remove the volume and squelch knobs.
Desolder the metal shield at six places around the logic board and lift
it up and off the board. This is fairly easy to do with a low wattage
soldering iron. Apply pressure with your fingers while the shield is
heated at each leg. As the solder melts, that leg of the shield will
slip upward and pop free. Now there are two choices. If you have an air
sucking soldering iron, you can procede to desolder each of the three
leads. If you have a normal iron, this will be impossible.  The
remaining choice is to crush the crystal with a pair of needle-nose
pliars until only three leads remain sticking up off the board. Then
you can heat and remove each of the three leads. The center lead is
ground.  You will only use the outer two leads when installing the new
crystal. It would be a good idea to insulate the body of the crystal
with shrink tubing (whatever you do, don't use electrical tape!) to
avoid it shorting out to another component. The crystal will have to be
bent over so that the metal shield can fit back on top of the logic
board.  Before you completely hook everything back together, get the
scanner in a usable state and make sure it works. It would be a real
bummer to tear it all apart because something is wrong.

Hope this helps,


Subject: Pro2005/6 SSB MOD HERE!

Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 18:04:59 GMT

I had a few requests for this mod so I thought everyone would benefit...

This is the mod for adding SSB capability to your Pro2005/2006.  It is
taken in part from Bill Cheek's Scanner Mod Handbook Volume 1.  As long
as you have a shortwave receiver with an external antenna jack and
capability to tune to 455 KHz, you can interface it to the Pro2006 with
this mod.  It is best if you use a static safe work environment to
perform this mod and you ...

read more »


Radio Shack PRO-2006 Mod. Info

Post by Charles Richar » Mon, 12 Sep 1994 18:53:47

:                       PRO-2006 Modifications
: Subject: Pro2005/6 SSB MOD HERE!

: This is the mod for adding SSB capability to your Pro2005/2006.  It is
: taken in part from Bill Cheek's Scanner Mod Handbook Volume 1.  As long
: as you have a shortwave receiver with an external antenna jack and
: capability to tune to 455 KHz, you can interface it to the Pro2006 with
: this mod.  It is best if you use a static safe work environment to
: perform this mod and you should have some technical knowledge.  Also, a
: schematic would be helpful but is not necessary.
: You will need the following parts:
:- Output jack (I use a 1/8 mini earphone jack but some like a BNC.  The
:            1/8 mono jack is easier to install because you don't have
:            to drill as big a hole in the back of the unit)
:-.01 uF capacitor
:- 5 Kohm resistor (1/4 watt)
:- 6 inches of mini coax or other shielded cable
:- A cable to run from the 2006 to your shortwave.  I use the shielded
:  cable that has the 1/8 plug on one end and a phono plug on the other
:  end  (1992 catalog Radio Shack P/N 42-2444 works for me).  The phono
:  plug is perfect for the antenna input of my DX440 shortwave receiver.
: The first step is to remove the cover of the unit and drill a hole in
: the back of the 2006 for your 1/8 or BNC plug.  (You will want to wrap
: some tape around the drill bit about an inch from the end to keep it
: from cruising right on into the electronics once it punches through the
: metal!)  Solder the 5K resister to one end of the .01 uF cap.  Solder
: the other end of the cap to the shielded coax wire.  Solder the other
: end of the coax to your 1/8 phono plug (or BNC) and ground the cable at
: this end.  Now that the cable is in place you are ready to connect it
: to the 455 KHz source which is D33.  It is on the top circuit board
: near the middle left, not too far from a huge capacitor.  Solder the
: end of the resistor to the cathode of D33.  (This should be the top of
: the standup part)  Now you can test it out before you put the cover
: back on to make sure you did everything correct.  You should be able
: to tune to some local airport or CB frequency on your 2006 and receive
: the same thing on your shortwave (with it tuned to 455 KHz and hooked
: up to the 2006 of course).  If you tune something on your scanner that
: is SSB, you should be able to switch your shortwave to SSB and tune in
: the signal just fine.  Beware of one thing, since the 2005/6 only tunes
: in 5 KHz increments minimum, you may notice from time to time that the
: signal on your shortwave isn't real clear.  It may be that you will
: need to tune the shortwave anywhere from 451 to 459 KHz to tune in the
: signal well!

: David
: Brad Steinman, N8ZRP

 I get a squeal at 455kHz on my DX-440, so I asked Bill Cheek at
Commtronics Engineering what to do. He said: "I think the DX-440 is
receiving it's own IF at 455kHz, hence the squeal. You should first be
sure all other nearby radios are turned off because 455kHz is a common IF
frequency. If the DX-440 just has this as a problem, we can always tap
10.7MHz out of the PRO-2005 at pin 1 of IC1 and otherwise follow the rest
of the steps..."
 "This might actually give better results than tapping 455kHz anyway!"
 I assume this would also be pin 1 of IC1 in the 2006, but check to make